whenever im mig welding I usually will not pulse, stitch, or push the weld.
-I don’t stitch weld simply because you usually do not get the penetration you want
-I do not push from right to left due to the fact its harder to get penetration because the weld is being sent away from the molten puddle un like the pulling method where by your wire is pushing in to the molten puddle furthermore the mig weld is allot harder to manipulate and make the weld look suitable.
The primary mig welding technique i use is sort of distinct from other methods for example “C” or “e” even though i actually do use the “e” in some situations The method i personally use is a back and fourth motion while pulling left to right ( in the event your a lefty the opposite applies) with the nozzle of the gun at a 45 degree position. i target the wire in the center of the joint the spot where the two metals meet.
I may make use of a “e” formation should there be a thicker piece of steel on one side versus the other in that instance i’ll push the weld in a “e” configuration in the direction of thicker piece.
Starting with the Hand position
- grip the trigger portion of the gun with your right hand having the ability to rotate your wrist ( such as the throttle of a motorbike)
- your gonna want to lay the actual bend of the gun in the middle of your pointer finger and thumb with the top of your hand resting on the bench.
- your left hand will be the point for your gun to be able to pivot on and also to secure the nozzle.
-your right hand is going to be the component which twists to produce the backward and forward motion that forms your mig weld beads.
- Also you are gonna need to loosen up your arms and hands to aid you to glide your left hand across the bench to follow along with the weld along the joint.
I do not forget while i was first beginning out i was basically always mig welding like i was in a big hurry but you don’t want to. you need to relax your grasp ( that gun seriously isn’t going anywhere)
-when you begin the weld, loosen up!! do a nice small loop to close off the end of the joint
- then pull to the right roughly a one half inch or less in a partial rapid movement
- Then push the puddle returning over what weld i recently laid down in a reduced pace and watch the bead create a nice spherical puddle
- while i push back i view the space of the bead before and try and match the stoping spot of the puddle i did earlier. that is precisely how i know how far i have to push back the puddle.